Personal profile
Research interests
My individual and collaborative research is organised into three inter-looping areas, each comprising of a series of linked projects located in knit design research.
Individual Colour Innovation investigates the use of colour and light to disrupt pattern perception, challenging colour use in fashion and interiors and offers sustainable solutions to the impact of textile coloration.
Colour Movements (2013), used theatre lighting and dance, in a collaboration with the Phoenix Dance Theatre, to demonstrate early findings of the research. It generated a new theory Performance Craft (Gaston, 2016). Colonise: Colour (2016), Colonise: Night (Light Night, Leeds,2016), Crafted Futures (Leeds Industrial Museum and The SAB Gallery Leeds, 2016), a strand of the Yorkshire Year of the Textile and Colour Sails (Pannett Art Gallery, Whitby and Salts Mill, Saltaire, 2019) extended this project through large scale knit and light installations that invited public interaction, increasing the complexity of colour gamut extension through lighting, simultaneous contrast and optical mixing produced through knit structure. It included integrated shape generation to reduce production waste.
Collaborative Material Innovation extends the use of knit as a flexible, material system within architecture and is undertaken in a collaborative partnership, Knit: Design: Research (https://www.postdigitalknit.com). Projects use knit as a research tool, utilising the unique inherent properties of knit such as formability and extensibility which can be modified through material use. Knit can be produced in two or three-dimensions and can respond to its environment through tensioning. This work explores practical design solutions and theory generation.
Inflection (2017) explored the materiality embedded in artefacts in Chinese collection at the Royal Armouries, Leeds and re-imagined them as a complex material system created using advanced knit technology. Working with Cox Architecture, Australia to produce innovative shade solutions for the Opportunity Pavilion, Dubai 2020, Knit: Design: Research produced a bespoke tensioned-knit sun canopy, incorporating subtle colour and textural transformations, innovatively using twice-knitted, natural yarns to reduce overall fabric weight. Post Digital Knit (2019) Considered how the use of technology disrupts traditional making processes, exploring how digital technologies and craft thinking can enable innovation.
Multi-agency Societal Innovation uses design research to bring change in education policy, social inclusion, well-being and community in partnership with major national or regional organisations.
The research has its roots in the series of 18 practice-led, public workshops delivered as part of Yorkshire Year of the Textile (2016/7). As academic lead for the Yorkshire strand of Make Your Future (2017/9), the Crafts Council’s response to the crisis of creative education in UK schools, I delivered teacher CPD and student craft workshops to 24 schools, based on knit as a thinking tool. As principal investigator, I am currently preparing an AHRC submission with Leeds City Council and Leeds Arts University, investigating craft as a driver for change in primary education.
Biography
After starting her international career in the knitwear industry, Dr Elizabeth Gaston has extensive experience in knit design, research and education. Current individual and collaborative research is organised into three inter-looping areas, each comprising of a series of linked projects located in knit design research.
Individual Colour Innovation investigates the use of colour and light to disrupt pattern perception, challenging colour use in fashion and interiors and offers sustainable solutions to the impact of textile coloration.
Collaborative Material Innovation extends the use of knit as a flexible, material system within architecture
Multi-agency Societal Innovation uses design research to bring change in education policy, social inclusion, well-being and community in partnership with major national or regional organisations such as the Crafts Council or Leeds City Council.
The unifying aspect of this work is the use of knit as a research tool. Knit research requires a unique body of knowledge, with an understanding of materials, technology, process and aesthetics. This combination can be applied to produce innovative solutions to real world problems. Her research follows an interdisciplinary approach through collaboration, using methodologies from architecture, physics, psychology, dance and poetry. It has been disseminated widely in exhibitions, journal papers and international conference presentations.
Education/Academic qualification
Textile Design, PhD, The Inter-relatedness of knitted fabric, pattern and colour in the perception of pattern in Fair Isle Knitted Fabrics
25 Jan 2016 → 31 Dec 2099
Award Date: 25 Jan 2016
Expertise related to UN Sustainable Development Goals
In 2015, UN member states agreed to 17 global Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to end poverty, protect the planet and ensure prosperity for all. This person’s work contributes towards the following SDG(s):
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SDG 9 Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure
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SDG 10 Reduced Inequalities
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SDG 17 Partnerships for the Goals
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Collaborations and top research areas from the last five years
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Colour and Pattern in Knitted Fabrics
Gaston, E., 26 Dec 2024, The Bloomsbury Encyclopeaia of World Textiles. Bloomsbury, Vol. 3.Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Entry for encyclopedia/dictionary › peer-review
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Knit Thinking: Self Supporting Textile Forms
Gaston, E. (Photographer), 21 Nov 2024Research output: Non-textual form › Artefact
Open AccessFile16 Downloads (Pure) -
Look Closer, See the Extraordinary: Extraordinary Colour
Gaston, E. (Designer), 10 Jul 2024Research output: Non-textual form › Exhibition
File5 Downloads (Pure) -
Modular Knitted Architecture: Column
Gaston, E., Scott, J. & Agraviador, A., 1 Nov 2024, 92nd Textile Institute World Conference (TIWC 2023): Sustainability of the Textile & Fashion Supply Chain: Transitioning to Zero Carbon & Zero Waste: Huddersfield, United Kingdom 3 – 6 July 2023. Red Hook, US: Textile Institute, Vol. 1. p. 336-350 15 p.Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Conference contribution › peer-review
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Modular Knitted Architecture: Column
Gaston, E. (Designer), Scott, J. (Designer) & Agraviador, A. (Developer), 20 Sept 2023Research output: Non-textual form › Artefact
Open Access
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The Textile Institute (External organisation)
Gaston, E. (Member)
14 Jun 2024Activity: Membership › Membership of committee
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Chartered Fellowship of The Textile Institute (CText FTI)
Gaston, E. (Other)
10 Mar 2024Activity: Other
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Fashion as a Filter: using the digital to inspire the physical.
Gaston, E. (Speaker)
7 Sept 2022 → 8 Sept 2022Activity: Talk or presentation › Oral presentation
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The Future of Craft Education
Gaston, E. (Speaker)
25 Sept 2020Activity: Talk or presentation › Invited talk
Prizes
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Chartered Fellowship of the Textile Institute (CText FTI)
Gaston, E. (Recipient), 2024
Prize: Other distinction
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Textile Society Professional Development Award
Gaston, E. (Recipient), Sept 2021
Prize: Other distinction