Knit Thinking: Self Supporting Textile Forms

Textiles as a fabrication material are routinely supported externally or internally to generate form. The body defines form in garments, whereas in architecture, form is often generated through rigid tensioning. In both cases, a 2D fabric is transformed through cutting and seaming to produce a 3D outcome (Reinhardt, 2007). Construction follows a predetermined plan that separates design from production. Knit, as an additive manufacturing process, offers the opportunity to create innovative, seamless, 3D forms (Underwood, 2009). They develop synchronously with construction, allowing the maker to forge a deeper connection to the outcome (Gaston & Scott, 2022).
Knit is considered a simple loop construction process, where fabrics are created by drawing yarn through a loop to produce a new loop. However, the function and properties of a knitted fabric are defined by a complex interaction between material use and the loop construction process (Spencer, 1989). Materials are defined by fibre type and spinning parameters and the individual loop construction process is defined by direction of production, deformation and loop geometry. Subtle changes in the specifications of a fabric at the level of fibre, yarn, fabric or form can have a dramatic effect on the surface and functionality of a fabric.
This project uses Knit Thinking to develop a series of seven experimental self-supporting textile forms that explore space by exploiting the properties of fibre and fabric. The forms explore rigidity and flexibility through material use, fabric structure and loop organisation using explicit knit knowledge and a craft methodology. The knitted outcomes are latent opportunities to develop a new relationship between the tactility of knitted fabrics, the haptic sensation of making and the experience of form and space. As prototypes, they question how the 3D, zero-waste knit construction process can add value to interior practice methodologies.