Zoom Hoods: fashion research in and for a global pandemic

This paper will explore the changes in working practice for fashion research, including research for design and through design, undertaken under the extraordinary pandemic lockdown conditions of 2020/21. It will analyse change in five themes; place; scale; material use; hand process and the use of digital technology, discussing positive and negative outcomes of the change. Analysis is based on practitioner reflection, student observation and fashion industry case study.

Results have been categorised in one of four ways, positive enhanced change (change that was already happening but has been speeded up), a positive change in direction, negative enhanced change and a negative change in direction. Findings will be discussed in terms of the potential long-term benefits for design practice and education. It is recognised that whilst the pandemic continues, change is fluid and the conclusions drawn are speculative.

Personal critical reflection has been key in this research, particularly with focus on the use of hand and digital technology in the design process. This is illustrated through a personal design challenge, presented as a collection of knitted fabrics and experimental small-scale garments. This work is a result of an ongoing investigation into the innovative use of colour and pattern in knitted fabrics as a driver for more sustainable coloration of textiles.